Join me as I explore the magic of Cappadocia and share its hidden gems

1. Airport to hostel
2. Exploring Goreme Round 1
3. Exploring Goreme Round 2
4. Goreme Final Day

Airport to hostel

Standing around the baggage drop is never a fun time, but when you’ve just landed at Nevşehir Cappadocia Airport, it really goes to show what people are like. With no bags coming out, people instead of standing behind the line so everyone could try to see their bag, decided lines don’t apply, standing so everyone else behind them in this small airport couldn’t see the belt now full of bags. So lightning-fast reflexes were required to move the people, I mean grab the bags off the belt.

The next problem was finding transport to get to the hostel, which was located in Göreme. Not to fear though, for if you land at this airport, there are a couple of options to make your way to Göreme (place of the hot air balloons).

The options:

• A taxi with an enthusiastic driver
• A mini van with a more serious driver

The price points. This is where it got funny. Outside the airport, you see taxi drivers and a board with the minivan prices, which were far cheaper. Opting for the minivan, we started to walk toward one when a taxi driver approached us.

“Taxi?” he asked.

“No thanks,” I replied.

He then insisted he could offer a better price than the minivan. Intrigued, I asked how much. He quoted a higher price. So, I repeated, “No thanks, this one’s cheaper.”

Not giving up, he tried to convince me his taxi was better because it was private and faster, which he claimed made it cheaper, despite the actual fare being higher. Eventually, we left him behind and climbed into the bright blue van heading towards Göreme.

This blue van was riding like a bat out of hell as we sped into Göreme, finally arriving at Diadem Cappadocia Guest House & Hostel (a cave hostel). Exiting the van, we were immediately greeted by the hosts, who offered to take our bags and asked if we needed anything.

Before I go further, let me say this: the hospitality here was the best we’d received so far. I highly recommend this hostel. They go above and beyond to meet your needs, always with a smile.

After checking in, we were led to our room. It was impressive. Each bed had its own curtain for privacy, the beds themselves were comfortable, and the room was wonderfully dark (being in a cave and all). It was different, but a good different.

Exploring Goreme Round 1

Awakening inside the cave from a deep hibernation is a fantastic way to start the day, made even better by walking outside (clothes on, of course) and sitting at a table for breakfast. When I say the hosts here are the friendliest and kindest people, I mean it. Within seconds, I was asked if I wanted eggs with my breakfast (which, by the way, is free) and if I would like Turkish tea or coffee.

This brings me to another point: Turkish apple tea is amazing and is a must-try if you’re in the country. Within moments of these questions, out came the host with a plate of food and a cup of tea, making my morning complete. As KFC would say, it was ‘finger-lickin’ good’.

Fuelled and ready for the day, it was time for some planning. Luckily, the amazing hosts were eager to help out and suggested downloading the app MAPS.ME. They then went through and pinned out trails for us to take on a big walk to see some of the beauty Cappadocia had to offer (also a good excuse to work off breakfast). The rough pinned-out track is called the Red Rose Trail and takes you through some amazing landscapes. All in all, with a little extra added for good measure, the walk would be close to 18 km.

Into the sun, the march began, first down a couple of streets which gave way to our first up-close glance at the rock formations that make the Cappadocia area of Turkey famous. As my legs carried me further, we passed a four-wheeler motorbike tours place, and directly opposite, the horse tours, eyeing each other up across the road.

Eventually, we made it to the Open Air Museum area, aptly named because, well, it’s in the open and there’s air, or perhaps because the exhibits are within the rock formations. After a brief look at the cost and a sneaky preview through the gate, it didn’t seem worth it. No photos were allowed either. While contemplating this, we bumped into Brody and his partner Alia, the couple we shared a room with in Istanbul. They were about to enter the Open Air Museum, so we made a deal to catch up later and get the scoop on whether it was worth visiting another time.

After a quick chat, we parted ways and prepared for the big trek. Not before I got a big old bottle of water to hydrate myself on this journey (a genius move, if I do say so myself). Just before setting off, I couldn’t resist getting a photo on the lovers’ bench to really sum up that side of myself.

The trek might be best summed up somewhat briefly then explained using pictures. Navigating through the bird songs and lush greenery of nature, with springs of water along the paths and an abundance of bugs, we encountered the surreal rock formations scattered everywhere. Some of these formations had been carved by people, serving as dwellings or art pieces, while others stood as magnificent buildings, including places of worship. These structures often began as simple openings in the rock, evolving into breathtaking works of beauty once inside.

The landscape, perhaps due to hunger and heat-induced delusion, brought to mind the movie “Dune.” This inspired some playful recreations, including wrapping my shirt around my head. However, upon reflection, it occurred to me that to any passerby, this might appear somewhat cult-like. I’ll leave one image here just as an example because you’ll get what I’m meaning when I say it looks less Dune and more… well yeah…

Amongst the natural beauty of the walk, you stumble upon these quaint juice stands offering fresh orange and pomegranate juices. They looked tempting, but my trusty bottle of water had me covered. Occasionally, you’d also come across small cafes scattered about, almost hidden amidst the landscape. The trail was sparsely marked, with occasional wooden signs indicating directions or perhaps a glimpse of some chickens near a small hut. That was also about the only signs on the track so the MAPS.ME app really did come in handy.

Enticed by hunger and a loud-mouthed American lady’s recommendation, we stopped at a small cafe. We initially planned to just glance at the menu to gauge the prices, but our empty stomachs had other plans. When the American lady insisted it was the best food she’d ever eaten, we couldn’t resist giving it a shot.

Seated and presented with the menu by the lady in charge, we exchanged puzzled glances as she struggled to communicate in English. Rejecting the soup initially raised our hopes we were getting somewhere, but as we agreed to order the ravioli from the limited options, confusion lingered. Then came the unexpected question about EFES after we had ordered a coke, which we couldn’t quite decipher but assumed was related to the ravioli, so we went along with it, saying “yeah, sure.”

The drinks arrived, and notice I said drinks, as the coke was placed down followed by the EFES, which, to our surprise, turned out to be a beer. Miscommunication number one complete. Next came a salad, followed by some pickled vegetables, relish, and bread. And then, guess what? Soup, bloody soup. Confusion clouded our minds as we wondered what this order was all about, considering we had only agreed to the ravioli. Nevertheless, we started eating, and eventually, the ravioli made its appearance.

Now, back to that American lady. The food was nice, but she needs to get out more because for the price, it was not worth it. So after finishing our meal, I joked about how funny it would be if it cost 2000 Turkish Lira, given that there were no prices anywhere. Well, ha ha ha, because the joke wasn’t far off – it actually cost 1500 Lira each, about $40 NZD. That’s the last time I’ll listen to an American about food for a while, that’s for sure.

With our stomachs full and wallets a bit lighter, we continued our march. Along this route, we encountered numerous carved holes in the rocks, as well as the breathtaking church carved into the stone. At first glance, it might seem like a mundane entrance, but as you venture further inside, it unfolds like a flower, revealing its true beauty. This is best captured through images and a video, as it’s hard to believe that all of this is inside a rock.

After this, we continued our hike, encountering more of the same rock formations, but this time with a slight reddish hue. We carefully avoided the water running down the path as we made our way to the end of the trail and eventually reached the town of Cavusin. Along the way, I couldn’t help but notice the abundance of grape farms, presumably for winemaking, adding a picturesque charm to the journey (see slideshow below for farmland and town).

The town of Cavusin nestled under what locals refer to as castles, which are unlike your typical medieval fortifications. These “castles” are massive natural rock formations that have been sculpted with rooms carved out of them and tunnels winding through the rock. They are truly remarkable. The surrounding town is partly built above ground with stone and blocks, while other areas extend downwards into the rock, creating a landscape unlike any other (see slideshow below).

We came across some formations called Fairy Chimneys, but let’s just say they resemble something else, and I’m not sure the locals would appreciate that comparison! Check out this picture and see what you think.

Fast forward to a very sweaty me arriving back at the hostel after what was an exhilarating walk. The sun was edging towards the horizon, so we rendezvoused with Brody and Alia to head to the bustling lookout point. It offered a breathtaking view over the town, and as the sun dipped and the lights twinkled on, the scene became even more enchanting.

I couldn’t resist injecting a bit of humour into the moment by pretending to stumble off the edge of the cliff, much to the shock of an Asian couple nearby as one let out a scream. After the initial fright, they burst into laughter and joined us for some impromptu photoshoots, even deploying a drone for some aerial shots. It turned into a hilarious evening as we struck poses together, although I suspect the photos they took of just us might never see the light of day—perhaps stashed away in their basement with the eyes crossed out!

But let’s return to that view—it was absolutely breathtaking, a once-in-a-lifetime experience shared with wonderful company (slideshow below & cheeky video).

Exploring Goreme Round 2

All that walking wasn’t quite enough for us, apparently, because we decided to set our alarms for the ungodly hour of 5 am to catch the hot air balloons at sunrise. But alas, our plans were thwarted when we reached the lookout and found no balloons in sight, thanks to some pesky winds. Still, the view did offer a stunning sunrise, so the early morning adventure wasn’t a complete loss.

Waking up for the second time in one day always gives off a strange vibe, doesn’t it? But it was time to shake off the disappointment of the failed balloon trip—or was it just a dream? I’m still not entirely sure. Anyway, today was another day packed with a big walk, graciously planned by our host. Seriously, I can’t sing enough praises for this hostel. Although, now that I think about it, maybe the host was trying to get rid of us by scheduling all these intense hikes…

We met up with Brody and Alia again, so at least this time the walking bus had some more passengers. The goal was to reach Uçhisar Castle Rock, which happens to be the tallest point in Cappadocia. It was a scorching hot day, and we had quite a trek ahead of us. We began by walking through Pigeon Valley, and to this day, I still don’t understand why it’s named that. Sure, I did spot a pigeon—plot twist! But just one. In my book, that doesn’t quite justify the name. Take a look at the pictures below and see if you can spot any pigeons or understand why it’s called that.

As Uçhisar Castle Rock loomed closer, a mountain with snow-capped peaks appeared in the distance, creating a stark contrast to the scorching sun turning our skin red. The climb up to the castle was, to put it mildly, a sweaty mess—more so thats what I’d call me. However, reaching the bottom of it was awe-inspiring. The views over the valley were absolutely breathtaking and definitely made the hike worthwhile. While entering the castle would have been nice, the steep entrance fee made us think twice. Instead, we all lingered around the base, soaking in the views and admiring some of the carved-out rocks.

In the vicinity, there were several stalls, one of which was selling dried fruits. After sampling some, both myself and Matt were instantly hooked, so we grabbed a bag of them. Sure, they were a bit pricey for what they were, but the taste made it totally worth it.

As we made our way back down and toward Love Valley, we passed a couple of camels just chilling, not a care in the world. As we neared the entrance of the valley, a dog appeared from the side of the road. We stopped to look but not touch, remembering the rule: you break it, you buy it. The dog became our guide, trotting out in front of us, leading the way down paths and right to the beginning of the valley. Remarkably, this dog didn’t ask for a tip or anything at the end, which was a bonus in itself.

Entering Love Valley was a sliding experience; there was heaps of loose gravel over the dry ground, and that combined with steep gradients on the walk made for difficult footing at times. The walk was brilliant though, even if I could feel some sunburn with my sunscreen being sweated out. This valley, like the one from the day before, had the same white rock formations, but the trail was far different in terms of walking, so it was still interesting. Some of these rocks did look a little like love hearts, too. Maybe that’s where the name Love Valley comes from? Or maybe Tortoise Valley has a better ring to it because it was the first time I had seen a Tortoise in the flesh, and then another, and another. Or maybe it was called Love Valley because towards the end of the valley, again, were what the locals call ‘Fairy Chimneys,’ aka we all know what they look like. Seeking shelter from the sun under one of these was a great time to take in a bucket load of water and eat some dried fruit before then making it back to the hostel for a chill evening and a shower, which really did reveal the sunburn on my shoulders unfortunately with each drop of water slapping me.

Wrapping up the day, an awkward situation unfolded at the supermarket. We purchased buns, cucumber, tomatoes, and kebab meat with the thought of making sandwiches for dinner back at the hostel. Upon returning, we started to prepare when we were informed that guests weren’t allowed to use the kitchen. While we accepted this, our hosts kindly offered to cook the meat for us instead. Their level of kindness and hospitality was unmatched, and feeling guilty for inconveniencing them, I insisted on doing the dishes, despite their offer to take care of it. Legends, indeed.

Goreme Final Day

Rise and grind. In other words, attempting to catch the balloons today. It was a success! From the viewpoint and even on the way there, the hot air balloons filled the sky. Some flew so low over buildings they almost scraped them, while others soared high above the town. Though the clouds obscured the sunrise, the views were still incredible. The sheer number of balloons in the sky at one time was astonishing. I even witnessed a couple of them bump into each other, but thankfully, there were no consequences. It was truly an amazing sight from the ground, watching them gracefully float by. Definitely worth the early wake-up call to witness such a spectacle (see video and slideshow below).

After catching some more shut-eye post-balloons, it was time for breakfast and then checkout. Fortunately, we could leave our bags at the hostel since our flight wasn’t until later that evening.

We hopped on the bus to Nevşehir (a town not far from Goreme) to explore for most of the day. Upon getting off the bus, we made a beeline to a stadium that we had spotted on Google Maps. Unfortunately, we couldn’t see inside the small stadium, but it was still interesting to walk around it. This place seemed less frequented by tourists, judging by the stares we received that made us feel like we were from another planet.

From our self-guided outside stadium tour, we stumbled upon a football shirt shop with a lovely lady inside. She couldn’t speak a lick of English, so we relied on Google Translate for communication. Here, I spotted a football shirt with the club’s badge featuring the mountain I had seen the day before with snow on it, so it only seemed right to get it. This interaction marked a wonderful start to our time in Nevşehir.

Next on the agenda was reaching Kayaşehir Castle. This castle resembled the stone ones you’d imagine sitting atop a hill overlooking the town. However, on the way to this castle, we encountered a large mosque. Not just any large mosque, though – this one was still under construction, making for an interesting sight from the outside. It was clear that once completed, it would be an architectural masterpiece.

Another steep hill awaited us on our journey up to the castle. But as with most of these hikes, the reward at the top was worth the effort. This old castle had witnessed many events over the years, including occupation by the Romans at one point. The panoramic views it offered over the town were simply breathtaking.

After exploring the castle, I sat on a bench to enjoy an orange when, suddenly, a tortoise appeared as if by magic. I couldn’t help but wonder how many years it had taken for this tortoise to climb to the top of the hill. Watching it navigate the stairs was both amusing and endearing, as it would often tip over the edge before half-face planting onto the next step. This unexpected encounter only added to the enjoyment of exploring the castle (see slideshow and video below).

After exploring the castle, we decided it was time for lunch. Since this town was less touristy, we found that the prices and portion sizes were just right, making for a satisfying and affordable meal. Afterward, we headed back to Goreme to spend some more time there before heading to the airport for our flight back to Istanbul.

In a stroke of ironic humour, I had been joking about spotting a turkey in Turkey. Then, just as we were about 10 meters away from returning to the hostel, there it was behind a fence. And to top it off, it was alive and well! It was my first encounter with a live Turkish Turkey in Turkey, and I couldn’t help but laugh at the unexpected fulfilment of my joke.

As we boarded the van to leave, it was a bittersweet farewell with the hosts exchanging heartfelt goodbyes. One of them even asked for a hug after shaking my hand, and I could have sworn there were tears glistening in their eyes (perhaps tears of relief at our departure) as we drove off.

At the airport, the departure process was fairly straightforward, aside from a few people causing delays by not following instructions at security. But such hiccups are part of the process. Boarding the flight, I found myself in the middle seat of a cramped row of three. And just when I thought the discomfort couldn’t get worse, the gentleman in front of me, who had recently undergone a hair transplant, reclined his seat fully, leaving me pressed up against it for the entire journey. There were moments during the flight when I entertained the idea of giving his newly transplanted hair a gentle tug, but thankfully, my brain overruled and said no.

Touching down in Istanbul around 10:30PM, we faced the daunting task of navigating across the city to reach the hostel before our early morning departure for Eceabat and the ANZAC Day service. But this is for the next post so stay tuned…