Learn about my journey in North Macedonia one of the Balkans hidden gems

1. Road to Skopje, North Macedonia
2. Exploring Skopje
   1. New Town Centre
   2. Lunchtime
   3. Old town
3. Skopje Day 2 – Hike
4. Ohrid – Another Gem
5. Ohrid day 2

Road to Skopje, North Macedonia

Skipping the hop and skip to the bus station, I finally found myself on the bus. The journey took around 5 hours, although we initially thought it would only be three—so that was a little shock to the food system. As the bus edged away from Sofia and neared the Bulgarian border with North Macedonia, I spotted some very interesting big chimneys sticking out of the ground. Now, these weren’t just any old chimneys; it was a Chernobyl-type situation minus the leak, for now… (yes, a nuclear power plant). Driving past these and taking a deep breath in to try and gain some radiation-induced superpowers, it was time for the border crossing.

One of the more interesting border crossings, this one! Not only was my bladder about three seconds away from exploding due to the lack of toilets on most buses in the Balkans, but they loved a good bag search. All of us were herded off the bus, and our big bags and carry-ons were opened and thoroughly searched for… cigarettes of all things. This is because Bulgaria has cheap cigarettes, but there’s a limit on how many you can take out of the country. Usually, the searching isn’t this intrusive, but just a week earlier, an American had tried to smuggle out a whole suitcase of cigarettes (the silly goose).

Now across the border and into North Macedonia, I had successfully smuggled 70kg of cigarettes (kidding, of course…). One thing I didn’t expect was the lush green countryside as the bus weaved its way through the mountains toward Skopje. North Macedonia was beginning to look like a hidden gem, and I hadn’t even stepped off the bus yet.

Exploring Skopje

Off the bus and beelining for the toilet, I discovered a real-life paywall in the form of a lady collecting fees, so I Decided to hold on a bit longer. I was immediately impressed by the kindness of the North Macedonian people. Unlike in other countries where taxi drivers pester you endlessly, in Skopje, a polite “no thanks” turns them into instant tour guides. They’d ask where you’re headed, give you directions, and wish you luck. I wouldn’t have been surprised if they offered me fries for the journey—they were just that friendly.

Arriving at the hostel just five minutes from the bus station was a bonus. Getting inside, however, proved a bit more challenging, as I had to figure out the right code and knock on the door until a friendly French dude, also staying there, answered. The hostel worker hadn’t arrived yet, but Hostel Valentin was a steal at €7 a night, offering a clean and friendly atmosphere. Once the worker showed up, bills were paid, advice was shared, and it was time to explore the town.

New Town Centre

Walking from the hostel through the blistering sun was, well, an experience. With sweat now coating me, I passed by a couple of pirate ship restaurants sitting in the river, which I’ll admit was a cool idea. However, not finding Captain Jack Sparrow, I continued on my way toward the new town centre. You might be wondering why it’s called the new town centre? That’s because it’s quite literally the new town centre—problem solved.

One thing to note about Skopje is the sheer number of statues sprinkled throughout the city. Around the town centre, they are particularly impressive. Alongside the statues, Skopje is home to some pretty nifty architecture. The style of many buildings is a contemporary take on classical architecture. One such example is the Government Offices, the Archaeological Museum, and a slightly different style in the Opera House (see slideshow below).

Letting my eyes feast on the buildings, I then switched to the Old Stone Bridge (in above slideshow), a famous landmark in Skopje. Extending across the river (I know, crazy), it sits there beautifully. From the bridge, hanging left, you make it to the New Town Centre. Immediately, you are face to face with the biggest statue I have ever seen—a man riding a horse. Not just any man, this is a statue of Alexander the Great, due to his Macedonian relations from way back a year or about 2380 years ago.

The size of this statue is truly mind-blowing, standing at 14 meters high on a plinth surrounded by Greek warriors at the base and some lions around the fountain. Over the top? Yeah, probably, but luckily for me, I’m into over-the-top statues, so yeah (see slideshow below).

Lunchtime

Stomach rumbling, it was now time for some lunch. Heading back past countless more statues, a man approached, offering to cut out a silhouette of our faces. It sounded like a terrible idea, but he went ahead anyway. The result was as expected. I was wearing a hat at the time, but I’m not sure I see me? Also, he did some voodoo type stuff to my eyes, so if I start climbing upside down on ceilings now you know.

Eventually, I made it to an Irish pub for lunch (I know, so adventurous). Feeling like a salad for once in my life (perhaps due to my previous Turkish issues), I ordered a Chicken Caesar salad. When it arrived, it was practically the size of the table. With North Macedonia’s great value for food, it tasted even better.

Old town

Not far from New Town is, as you might guess, Old Town. One of the highlights here is the Skopje Fortress, which is free to enter. To get in, you’ll need to walk around to the back if you’re coming from the Old Stone Bridge side. While it might take a moment to find the entrance, once you’re on top of the fortress, the views are stunning—and it doesn’t cost a thing. For those who enjoy a bit of exercise, there are plenty of stairs to climb.

Fortress conquered (in my mind), I set out to invade the Old Town itself. However, my grand plans were ruined almost immediately when a man tried to steal my hat, forcing me to concede defeat.

All was not lost, though. After hearing some jazz music in the distance, I stumbled upon an intriguing structure and treated myself to some top-notch gelato. Whether it was the heat, the long absence, or the bargain price, it hit the spot perfectly.

With gelato in hand, I followed the sound of music to find a delightful jazz concert in the public park. After soaking up the vibes under the sun for a while, I made my way back to the hostel, with a detour to stock up on supplies at the supermarket. Dinner was cooked, and burritos were prepped for tomorrow’s hike (yes, I hid that from you). Just before bed, I listened to an older German guy share stories of his work with troubled families, which included some intense moments like casually having pistols pointed at him and a house near the hostel being a recent one. With that thrilling tidbit in mind, it was time to hit the hay.

Skopje Day 2 – Hike

The day started with a good old yarn with my brother and then purchasing an all day pass ticket from the bus station, making it time to embark on today’s adventure. The plan was to:

• Take a bus to the gondola for the Millennium Cross
• Ride the gondola up to the Millennium Cross (with a view overlooking Skopje)
• Hike across to Matka Canyon
• Catch a bus back to Skopje

With the sun blazing and my backpack in tow, I headed to the bus station just around the corner from the hostel. Picture a can of sardines, then replace the sardines with people crammed together in the sun. That’s how it felt standing on the bus for the entire ride to the base of the mountain. One person leaning back would send a ripple through the whole bus—a true domino effect.

After surviving the sardine can experience, I disembarked with a gondola ticket in hand and boarded the gondola for a breathtaking ride up the mountain. The views were stunning—photos don’t quite capture it, but my descriptions might come close. It was similar to the gondola ride in Queenstown, NZ, with panoramic views.

At the top, the view only got better. The towering Millennium Cross stands tall and proud, offering stunning photo opportunities. One side looks down into lush valleys and nature, while the other provides a sweeping view of Skopje—no excuse not to appreciate the scenery. There’s also a café and an ice cream shop if you’re feeling peckish. Not that we needed it; we had our burritos—though a bit bland and boring (I mean delicious)—for lunch before setting off on our journey.

Time to hike for around 4 hours and soak in the sights. North Macedonia truly delivers in this area, with dirt roads leading to encounters with frogs in puddles and lizards darting across rocks. Though I missed seeing a slithering little snake in the wild, there was so much else to experience that it was a delightful sensory overload. The thrill of possibly spotting a wolf, bear, or lynx added to the excitement (though none made an appearance). The journey to the canyon included many false peaks that could be frustrating, making you think you’d reached the summit only to find a taller one ahead. But each peak offered breathtaking views of the surrounding landscape, so no complaints here. I could go on about this forever, especially since North Macedonia’s natural beauty exceeded my expectations. I highly recommend visiting this country and exploring this area—photos just can’t capture it all.

This wasn’t the end of the walk, though. A very steep descent was needed to get into Matka Canyon. With sweat pouring down and ants scurrying away from each step, plus a few near slips, we finally spotted some buildings and then the canyon itself. The water was stunning—if this area were a superhero, it would be Mr. Incredible (just for the name). There was, however, one small issue: my legs needed to be on the other side of the water. Fortunately, while contemplating a solution, a water taxi spotted Matt and myself and ferried us across for a very small fee. Perfect. (See slideshow of the canyon below.)

Now on the right side, we followed a path along the edge of the canyon, offering beautiful views where the water meets the mountains. But, with the need to catch the right bus back, we had to be at the bus stop by around 5pm. So, I took in the scenery as we made our way out of the canyon and toward the bus stop.

While exiting, I indulged in a much-needed ice cream, feeling like a kid again. My inner child was briefly freaked out when what must have been a 7-year-old boy walked by smoking a cigarette with what I assumed were his older siblings. With that shock in the system, the challenge now was finding the bus stop. The one on the map was nowhere to be found, and we were informed the bus wasn’t running that day. So, to avoid shelling out for a taxi, the next option was to catch a random bus from a small town not far from the canyon.

I say small town, but it felt more like a village as we meandered through backyards, crop fields, dirt roads, and chickens scattered about. The final hurdle was crossing a wooden bridge that seemed to have been built in the Stone Age—its missing boards and breaks were a bit unnerving. But, in true adventure fashion, this only added to the thrill of not knowing what to expect next.

After finally reaching the bus stop, we were relieved to see some locals hanging around, but our optimism was short-lived. The first bus didn’t show up, nor did the second. Enter Monika, quite possibly the kindest local met to date. She explained that while the bus would eventually come, many weren’t running that day. After an hour, the bus did arrive, but only took us halfway. So, back to waiting we went. Another 40 minutes later, the final bus to Skopje pulled up. Thankfully, Monika’s company made the wait bearable as she shared insights about North Macedonia and her own adventures (a big thank you).

By 8:30 p.m., we were back at the hostel and ready to head to the Irish pub for dinner. As we walked there, we admired the buildings illuminated in Macedonian colors. At the pub, we enjoyed a Champions League football game while devouring some much-deserved food. With our bellies full and exhaustion setting in, we hit the hay for a well-earned rest after the long day.

Ohrid – Another Gem

Sadly, it was time to bid farewell to Skopje and board the bus bound for Ohrid, home to one of Europe’s oldest and most beautiful lakes. But first, surviving the bus ride. If I could survive the Hobogang first.

The ride started off smoothly as we settled into our seats, only to be swiftly informed by new passengers that we were in the wrong seats. This led to a fun game of musical chairs, enhanced by a language barrier. Here’s a few notes from the ride:

• Bus seats were uncomfortable.
• There are lots of buildings half completed. (material shortages or money problems?)
• The horn gets abused
• What are in the random packages the bus driver stops and picks up?

On a brighter note, Expedia finally decided to refund me for the Turkish hotel fiasco (detailed in the ANZAC post). Despite initially refusing on four occasions due to alleged issues contacting the hotel, persistence paid off.

Arriving at the hostel was a breath of fresh air. Located right next to The Old Town and aptly named Old Town Hostel, it was a bargain at €12 a night. If you’re ever in town, this place is highly recommended!

Checked in, it was time to explore Ohrid. This picturesque town is so beautiful that its charm is mirrored in the lake—well, except when I was there and the wind decided to put on a show. The beauty extended to the gelato I was savouring (my excuse to indulge) and even to the floating downpipes. After a leisurely wander and brainstorming my next big restoration/resort business idea and spotting Puss In Boots, my stomach started calling the shots (classic).

One of the hostel’s recommendations was Bros Burgers, a burger joint that lived up to the hype. I had the Whiskey Burger, while Matt enjoyed the Smoked Burger, which was served under a glass dome filled with smoke—quite the dramatic presentation. I paired mine with a stout, enhancing the burger experience. As the sun began to set, we took in its final moments from the famous Church of Saint John the Theologian.

The walk to the Church of Saint John the Theologian was stunning, especially during the golden hour when the lakefront sparkled with photo-worthy scenes. After a short climb, we reached the church perched on a hill overlooking the lake, with views stretching to Albania on the far side. Despite the clouds and wind, the serene setting offered incredible visuals and photos. North Macedonia truly is a gem, and this was the perfect way to wrap up our first day in Ohrid (see slideshow below).

Ohrid day 2

Good morning, how are you? Thought I’d check in! I woke up to find the weather had decided to be uncooperative, with rain falling from the sky. But the forecast promised it would clear up after lunch, so I made plans to explore once the skies cleared.

The adventure began with a walk through the old town in the opposite direction from before, leading to a tree so ancient it seemed to need crutches to stand. Along the way, I spotted a gelato store—yes, again. It’s just a phase, I promise! My second weakness reared its head soon after: baklava. Despite paying a premium for it, I was satisfied, though from my Michelin perspective, it wasn’t my favourite. But hey, these things happen!

Next on the adventure list was a church, which followed the same architectural style as the one from the day before. It fit perfectly with its surroundings and was well worth the visit. Adjacent to this church was an amphitheater. Though I didn’t break into song despite the enthusiastic encouragement from the crowd, I could imagine how amazing it would be to watch a performance there with the lake as a stunning backdrop.

Next, it was time to visit Ohrid Fortress, with grand plans to breach the walls and conquer the city. Unfortunately, reality had other plans: the fortress was closed for the day. Still, there was some informative signage out front. I learned that the earliest records of the fortress date back to 209 BC, though it has undergone many transformations over the centuries to become the structure it is today. It was a fascinating glimpse into Ohrid’s ancient history and a reminder of how long the city and lake have been around.

After attempting to breach a fortress and failing what do you need? To talk to god, yes! The beautiful Church of Saints Clement and Panteleimon was just a short distance away from the fortress. This historic gem, surrounded by ancient ruins, required a small fee to enter, but it was well worth it. The overcast sky actually enhanced its beauty, making the gold accents on the church’s exterior really pop. While the interior was fairly simple, the exterior and its stunning backdrop made for a memorable visit (see slideshow below).

Before heading back to the hostel Church of Saint John the Theologian was just around the corner so one last visit wouldn’t hurt. Seeing it in daylight gave it a whole new vibe (check out the images below).

The night wrapped up with one of the best value-for-money meals I’ve ever had at a place called Vkusno. Recommended by the hostel for its affordable traditional food, I got half a chicken with salad, fries, bread, and Pepsi—all for about $8 NZD. The quality was good, and I’d have happily paid more for the meal, a perfect end to my North Macedonia adventure! However, no day is complete without gelato, and this time I went for Baklava flavoured.

As my head hit the pillow for the last night in North Macedonia, I couldn’t help but reflect on what a fantastic country it had been, filled with kind-hearted people and stunning sights. With my eyes closing, my thoughts shifted to the next leg of the journey—Albania. What new adventures await?