Read about an adventure in a beautiful country hidden away from the mainstream

Welcome to Albania

The morning began with a soggy trek to the bus station in Ohrid, North Macedonia. I say “trek” because the sky decided that heavy rain was the perfect send-off. What should’ve been a leisurely stroll turned into a half-jog, resulting in soaked shoes that squeaked with every step across the station floor. While sitting there contemplating life, the bus call came through, so I headed over confidently with my electronic ticket in hand. Easy, right? Wrong! Turns out, in some Balkan countries, electronic tickets aren’t enough. You need to physically go to the ticket counter and pay extra to get it printed. A cheeky little scheme, if you ask me, and one that could easily catch you out. So, here’s a travel tip: always check if paper tickets are a thing, because we almost missed the bus thanks to this unexpected detour!

The bus journey was pretty standard until we pulled into a station just outside of Tirana, and that’s when things got complicated. You see, the next bus station we needed to reach was in the centre of Tirana, which was far too long to walk. Adding to the difficulty, there was no public transport or buses running into the city, leaving us momentarily stranded.

Luckily, after a bit of wandering, we bumped into two other travellers, one from the Czech Republic and one from Slovakia, who were also trying to reach the next station. After a quick brainstorming session, the four of us decided to split the cost of a taxi or Bolt into the city, but again, no luck. With no other options, we approached one of the workers at the bus station for advice. After a few phone calls and a chat with her colleagues, she had a solution: one of the bus drivers, who wasn’t scheduled to leave for Kosovo just yet, could drive us to the station in his car for €5 each. Deal! Myself, Matt, and the two women hopped in, setting off on what would turn into quite the adventure.

The fun started when we realised our friendly driver spoke no English, leading to plenty of laughs, gestures, and nods as we tried to communicate. As we neared the city, traffic came to a standstill, and the driver received not one but two angry calls—presumably telling him he needed to get back for his bus. That’s when he transformed into The Stig from Top Gear, swerving through oncoming traffic in a mad dash to drop us off. And yes, I had the front-row seat for this entire spectacle.

Fortunately, we made it to the station, safe and sound—one could call it a free adrenaline rush and a direct delivery service!

Now, when I say “bus station,” you might imagine a building with buses lined up in an orderly fashion. Not in Tirana. This “bus station” was an open car park with buses scattered about, and people standing outside shouting their destinations. Oh, and it’s a cash-only service.

After a quick trip to the ATM (an absolute jackpot for any potential muggers) and devouring a sandwich, we headed back to board the bus to Vlore. Well, calling it a “bus” would be generous—it was more of a mini-bus with less legroom than a plane’s middle seat. But a journey is a journey, and as long as it got me to Vlore, I was fine with it. Halfway through the trip, they came around to collect the fare in cash, which was a surprise to anyone unaware of the setup. I guess if you didn’t have cash, you’d be left somewhere in an Albanian valley… though, luckily, I can’t confirm that!

Hot, sweaty, and cramped, I stumbled off the bus, pulling off what could only be described as a “crip walk” towards my bag and into…well, not the wilds of Albania, but straight into a crowd of taxi drivers begging for my business. I wasn’t keen on shelling out, so the 30-ish minute walk to the apartment it was. Let the adventure begin.

The sky was grey, but the air stayed warm as my bag dragged behind me. One of the first things that hit me was the amount of rubbish scattered along the streets and in the ditches. Not exactly the best first impression, but hey, different countries, different ways of doing things. Maybe it was just the area we were walking through to get to the accommodation. Still, it made for an interesting, if not eye-opening, journey. Below is a slideshow of some pictures from the walk to the apartment.

Finally making it to the accommodation, we were greeted by a friendly young guy who cheerfully showed us to the apartment/house. I’ve got to say, it was a neat little unit. Almost brand new and had everything we needed, including the all-important air conditioning. No complaints here—just compliments all around for this spot.

After unpacking, the beach was calling, and so was the hunt for dinner. A short walk later, and we had made it to the shore. The approach to the beach was particularly nice, with a path leading through some trees that gave it a bit of a secluded vibe. The beach itself was pretty scenic, except for one downside—the amount of rubbish scattered around. We quickly learned that walking a bit further down the sand and focusing on the ocean made all the difference. The view of the sea was beautiful, and thankfully, the rubbish was more of an issue here than on the main beaches, which were much cleaner.

Back on the main path and passing some friendly goats, I finally made my way into the heart of town. After climbing a small mound, I was rewarded with a lovely view of Vlore and the beauty it had to offer. It turns out there were indeed some picturesque spots to be found if you knew where to look!

Off the mound and down the main waterfront, the sun decided to put on a show that looked like something straight out of Hawaii. It was simply beautiful—palm trees, the beach, and a glowing sky peeking through the clouds. I got roped into a restaurant by a guy claiming to have the best pizza in Vlore, assuring me that if I didn’t like it, I wouldn’t have to pay. Strangely enough, I noticed about six of these restaurants all making the same claim! I must say, it definitely wasn’t the best pizza I’ve ever had, but who am I to argue with the cheeky bugger in Vlore? Regardless, it was a nice way to end the night before heading back to the apartment to do some re-planning for the next adventure. (below is slideshow of mentioned above)

After seeing Tirana, we made the decision to cancel our booking and head south to Sarandë after Vlore. Sarandë is known for its stunning coastline, often compared to the beautiful beaches of Greece. Time will tell if it lives up to the hype!

Vlore Day 2

Rise, relax and grind—that was the plan for the day. The “grind” came from the big walk we were about to embark on in search of the ideal beach for a cheeky dip in the sea. Luckily, the weather was on our side, with little to no wind and the sun beating its chest down upon us, the day was ripe for the taking.

The march began along the beaches, and the initial stretches outside some hotels weren’t too pleasing—rubbish was scattered everywhere. To make things stranger, these beaches looked like they had been rotary-hoed, as if someone was trying to plant potatoes in the sand. My guess is they were prepping for peak summer, maybe to get rid of the rubbish or to plant some weird potato hybrid in the sand. Who really knows? If you have the answer, please leave a comment so I can finally stop obsessing over the thought of beach potatoes!

More walking followed, and as I ventured further along, the beaches started getting nicer. Along the way, I noticed many painted eggs floating in the water (sadly, I failed to snap a pic). This was a tradition related to Orthodox Easter, where people paint eggs and toss them into the ocean—definitely a good day to be an egg-loving sea creature! After some Googling, I even witnessed an older woman participating in the tradition; she recited a prayer before throwing her egg into the water from the pier. The egg-spotting continued as I walked, now passing fancy hotels with large pools and live music playing in the background.

Finally, the beaches were looking good—no rubbish in sight and the waters crystal clear, just like you’d see in a brochure. We found a spot with a few people swimming, which seemed like a promising sign. However, before diving in, we decided to venture a bit further in search of the perfect beach.

We trekked over a hill that offered some stunning, almost Greek-looking views of the water, and there it was! But to our disappointment, the beach was undergoing construction and had been completely torn up. It was being transformed into an artificial beach, complete with concrete and machinery, making swimming impossible. So, it was a backtracking job for us. But hey, at least we were treated to some great views along the way!

Back at our original spot, we jumped into the water for a refreshing swim, especially with the air temperatures hitting a scorching 30 degrees. After feeling somewhat revitalised, it was time to hunt down some lunch. We stumbled upon a Greek restaurant that turned out to be a huge success. It was reasonably priced, and let me tell you—the food was absolutely delicious! Enjoying a tasty meal in the hot sun, paired with a Coca-Cola (not sponsored, unfortunately), made for a perfect afternoon.

Now it was time for the big walk back, passing another beach potato patch and heading towards the supermarket to grab supplies for dinner. I must say, shopping in a foreign supermarket comes with its challenges—everything from navigating the store layout to finding exactly what you’re after, especially when it comes to fresh meat. But I won’t bore you with the shopping list details.

On the way to the supermarket, I’m guilty as charged: I indulged in not one, but two gelato! Why? Because I’m on holiday, that’s why! Honestly, the first one was so delicious that I couldn’t resist snagging a second when I passed another gelato shop. Plus, they were cheap!

Just my luck—when we got back to the apartment, Liverpool were playing Tottenham! With a couple of drinks from the supermarket, it made for a great watch, especially with Liverpool stealing the show at 4-2.

Next up, cooking up a storm with the ingredients we found, whipping up some pasta that turned out pretty good, with leftovers for tomorrow. The night concluded with confirming our new travel plans, as I mentioned earlier, and then sat back to watch a movie. However, the TV kept overheating—talk about a first for everything! With that, our time in Vlore had come to an end.

Sarandë Day 1

Morning beckoned, along with last night’s pasta from the fridge and some cereal. The long walk to the bus station lay ahead, and let me tell you, it was a hot and sweaty trek. After navigating the dirt streets to the sealed ones, we finally made it to the bus station—essentially just buses lined up on the side of the road.

Arriving early as usual to ensure we found the right bus, we were told to take a seat at the café next to it. So, both Matt and I settled in and sampled a juice each to cool off from the walk and the stifling air.

It was time to embark on the four-hour journey down to Sarandë. This wasn’t the most pleasant of rides—I was folded like a piece of paper into my seat, the air conditioning was lacklustre, and loud music blared in the background. As the journey went on, more and more people boarded, cramming the bus to the point where some had to stand, tumbling into each other around the corners. A bit of a comedy show, if you will.

But the views out the window were nothing short of incredible. Steep mountains and glistening blue water surrounded us, which at least made the time pass a little quicker than it otherwise would have (slideshow below).

Unfolding myself like a deck chair, freedom was upon me as I stepped out into Sarandë. However, after walking about ten meters, a scruffy-looking older man tried to somewhat forcefully offer to carry Matt’s bag, even attempting to grab it. Thankfully, that attempt failed, and we carried on our way, eventually making it to our apartment.

This place was amazing! We met the host downstairs, a nice bloke who took us up and showed us around. For the price, it was perfect. The sofa converted into a big bed, which was a bonus. Situated in a new apartment building just outside central Sarandë, it was still close enough for a short walk, and only a five-minute stroll to the water. Honestly, it was a bang for the buck, even cheaper than a lot of the hostels we had stayed in up to this point. See below for the masterpiece!

Unpacked and ready to go, it was time for a quick dip to refresh myself from the journey. The beach was quite stony, as most are around Albania, but that also meant the water was clear and inviting, so I dove right in. I emerged like a less-than-impressive version of Aquaman, dripping dry in the sun, which still had a bit of kick to it even at 6 PM.

Straight from the beach, I headed to the supermarket to grab some water and other supplies for breakfast and snacks. After that, it was back to the apartment for a refreshing shower and a change of clothes before heading out to explore and find some dinner. But first, I made a pit stop at the beach to catch the sunset, which bathed everything in a warming orange glow—the perfect way to kick off my time in Sarandë (see slideshow below).

After some wandering, we finally reached the Sarandë waterfront. We strolled up and down a few times in search of food, even jumping on the other end of a seesaw with a random kid who was eagerly begging for someone to join him. Eventually, we found a spot to eat. With one meal and a drink down, it was time for some gelato and to snap a few more photos of the sky, now painted in beautiful pink and blue hues. The view from the waterfront, complete with what I can only describe as a “stairway to heaven,” made for a perfect backdrop (see slideshow below).

As we wandered along after dinner, we stumbled upon a Davy Jones ship. One of the promoters eagerly approached us, revealing it was a party boat that set sail every night at 9 PM for a “Pirates of the Caribbean” style bash. After a hard pass, we continued our quest to find a spot along the waterfront to watch Manchester United play.

However, in our search, we encountered a total of three people trying to sell us drugs within just a 200-meter stretch—right as a police officers sometimes strolled past! By the third offer, I decided to switch things up and respond in gibberish instead of English. Was it a risky move? especially when groups of them were approaching? Absolutely! But it turned out to be quite entertaining to watch their confusion as they stumbled over their words, asking if I spoke other languages while I maintained my facade of bewilderment. Eventually, they left me alone, leaving me with a sense of victory in my little linguistic game. Mission accomplished!

On the walk back, we finally found a spot to catch the end of the football match, and let me tell you, they served the coldest beer in the world! Seriously, I now wish every glass in my life could be that cold. I couldn’t resist snapping a photo for evidence. The evening was capped off nicely, even with Manchester United taking a loss (sorry, not sorry!). Afterward, we strolled back to the apartment for a relax, content with how the day had unfolded.

Sarandë Day 2

Breakfast devoured and laundry hanging out to dry on the balcony, it was time for a relaxing adventure. We strolled along the waterfront and ended up at the Lost Seaside Beach Club Hotel, where a cabana was waiting with our name on it. For those who, like me, had no idea what a cabana was, it’s essentially a covered lounging area right by the water, complete with a net over the water. You can chill out, lie down, or even take a leap off into the sea. Perfect way to kick off the day! (see slideshow below)

The weather at the cabana was initially perfect: the sea was calm, with minimal wind, and the sun was out in full force, cranking up the temperature. It was the ideal spot to kick back and relax while gazing out over the water, occasionally drifting off for a quick nap. Not much else to report for the morning—just a classic rinse-and-repeat routine of soaking up the sun and jumping into the cool water to refresh!

However, the weather took a turn, and the waves grew angry, chopping up as the sun hid behind a blanket of clouds. It was disappointing; the relaxing vibe turned mildly unpleasant as the wind gave me a good beating. The solution? Head up to the restaurant above for lunch.

This place made me feel a bit like a peasant with its upscale atmosphere and clientele—not to mention the prices! But hey, you’ve got to treat yourself every now and then. Being next to the seaside, I naturally opted for the seafood pasta. It tasted as rich as the patrons around me, a flavour profile I’m certainly not used to, but it was a tasty experience nonetheless.

To top it off, while I was sitting there trying to act posh and enjoying my meal, the weather started to clear up. So, it was time to head back down for more swimming and soaking up the sun!

As the day turned into afternoon, it felt only right to indulge in a Piña Colada. What a great decision that was! It was cold and refreshing, especially as the sun peeked out and the wind died down. I took the opportunity to dive back into the water, practicing my best cannonballs off the net and enjoying the refreshing escape from the sun.

The sun began to dip low in the sky, the day wound down, but not before I spotted some folks taking influencer-style photos nearby. There was plenty of people-watching to be done, with interesting and strange sights all around—always something entertaining going on!

Overall, it was a unique experience, a little slice of paradise that I won’t have the chance to enjoy again for a while since I have now done it once. With that in mind, it was time to make the walk back.

Walking back lasted about five minutes before a Gyros place started calling my name. After discovering my love for Gyros on this journey, how could I possibly say no? I couldn’t—right answer! I mean, you’ve got chips, meat, and veggies all wrapped up together, mixed in with some sauce. It’s the perfect meal after a chill day. Just feast your eyes on the image of it below and be half wowed!

So, after devouring that delicious Gyros, the walk back to the apartment turned into quite an interesting one—not just because I had indulged in yet another tasty gelato or because I bumped into some fellow Kiwis who struck up a conversation, but mainly due to the stretch of waterfront as the sun began to disappear. In the space of just 400 meters, I was offered drugs not once or twice, but a total of six times! One of these offers even came from a guy standing directly next to a cop, who was facing the other way, as he whispered to me while doing some sniffing actions. So, either I look stupid or like someone who does drugs—not great options either way. I’m just going to chalk it up to looking like a tourist, a third option.

With my pockets now loaded with the money I pickpocketed from these dealers (just kidding; I’m too scared for that), I finally made it back to the apartment after a stop at the supermarket. It was the perfect way to wrap up a wonderful time spent in Sarandë (less the offers), including around eight hours at the beach club today.

Shkodër – Bottom to top

Today marked the day of consequences for the decision to come down to Sarandë, as it was time for the journey to the top of Albania, specifically to a place called Shkodër. This trip involved a bus change in Tirana, which was just over halfway through the journey.

It all kicked off with a quick stop at a bakery to grab some lunch for the bus, followed by a lot of sweating—seriously, it felt like I was in a sauna. When I finally boarded the bus, I was met with a tiny seat, and it quickly became clear that the air conditioning had decided to take the day off. With the outside temperature already spicy, I felt like I was sitting in an oven. To make matters worse, it seemed like Albanian buses were built for Hobbits, as I couldn’t sit properly in my seat and ended up having to stretch my legs into the aisle.

Luckily, this journey provided some great entertainment along the way. Not long into the ride, an older English lady started arguing with the bus drivers about the price of the journey. She wanted to be dropped off somewhere along the way with the guarantee that they would pick her up later in the day. While they agreed to her request, she insisted that they were ripping her off (they weren’t), proclaiming, “I was a barrister, so you better do as I say!” This was met with confusion and often silence from the drivers.

Her antics continued, calling them “naughty boys” and even threatening them with a finger gun, saying she would shoot them—definitely a bold move in Albania when you’re in the middle of nowhere! This back-and-forth went on for a while, and eventually, they dropped the price slightly just to quiet her down, which was unfortunate because it was quite the spectacle. When her stop finally came, she departed with the memorable parting words: “If I don’t come back, I’m a white slave.” What an interesting journey that was!

Then, in the middle of nowhere, we were told to transfer buses. I thought, “Trust the system,” as I watched our bags being carried over to a new bus. Stranger danger? Nah, just adventure excitement! It paid off to trust the process because I snagged a middle seat at the back of the new bus, which meant legroom and, as a bonus, actual airflow thanks to an open window. That is, until a lady boarded at one of the stops and promptly shut it, cutting off my air supply and sending me back into a sweat.

Finally, we made it to Tirana bus station after about a four-hour journey, with some memorable entertainment to pass the time. We transferred onto a normal-sized bus this time and had about 30 minutes before it departed. Once again, when the bus wasn’t moving, it felt like a sauna on wheels, but securing seats took priority over comfort. At least a man came on offering ice-cold goods from his basket before we took off, so there was that small relief if you wanted it!

After what felt like a marathon of bus rides, Shkodër was finally in front of me, ready to be conquered. It was now 5 PM, having left at 10 AM, so giving my legs a stretch to the hostel was a welcome activity.

Stepping into The Galley Party Hostel was a breath of fresh air! Everyone was so friendly, which was a fantastic bonus considering the price was so low. Even better, we scored a whole six-bed room to ourselves since it was still off-peak season. What a win!

First order of business? Get out some cash, since Albania is a cash-based country. While exploring Shkodër, we went from ATM to ATM, trying to find the best withdrawal fees. After a bit of a wild goose chase, we finally submitted to a random ATM, realising that the fees were pretty similar everywhere. With cash now in hand—though I resisted the urge to wave it around like I was in a heist—we headed to a traditional Albanian restaurant recommended by one of the hostel workers.

No disappointments here! The food tasted incredible, the service was good, and the prices were low. Unfortunately, I didn’t jot down the name of the place, but if you stay at the same hostel (which I highly recommend), they can give you the details. I ordered Pijeskavica and potatoes, which was basically a deconstructed burger with fries. It might have been the long journey talking, but everything about it was delicious—especially the free bread they brought to the table!

The meal was followed by a walk back via a gelato shop—shocker, right? Then it was back to the hostel to shower and enjoy a drink or two while playing games with the staff and a few other guests. We then headed out on their pub crawl, hitting up two very pleasant and friendly pubs where we watched Real Madrid beat Bayern Munich 2-1 in the Champions League.

The night was capped off by some fascinating conversations, one of which was with the part-owner of the hostel. He was a great guy who shared plenty of insights about Albania and tips for when we visit again. It was the perfect way to wrap up our time in Albania, surrounded by friendly faces, swapping travel stories, and exchanging tips and tricks we’d all picked up along the way.

Now, it’s off to bed before the journey to Montenegro tomorrow…